Czech chef Petr Stupka sat down with me to discuss typical Czech food, share recipes, and explore how Czech cuisine evolves with the changing times.

Can you tell us a little about your background?

I grew up during communism and my parents were religious so it was difficult to get into high school, but when I did I studied gastronomy. After high school, I dreamed of working as a chef on a ship, but instead I became the boss of a small cake factory (where I didn’t get to cook much). So I returned to high school as a gastronomy teacher. After twenty years, I left this position to embark on my own cooking path. I set up a culinary studio where I taught others to cook. These days I prepare food for special events and have a cooking blog and YouTube channel.

How would you describe Czech cuisine?

It has a very simple foundation (perhaps because of the cold Czech winters, which mean we only have a limited range of ingredients and spices). Czech people cook a lot of pork and poultry, and not so much fish or lamb. Typical Czech food is calorific and usually involves one big course and few side dishes.

Is Czech cuisine healthy?

Yes and no. During socialism we had one set of recipes and these were all restaurants cooked. Cooking something different was difficult because it had to be approved. This heritage still remains to a certain degree. At a village pub an old man will expect a large portion of pork, dumplings, and cabbage, but the younger generation have new expectations and healthy options are becoming more widespread.

Which typical Czech foods should a foreigner try?

This is the question that prompted me to write books about typical Czech food for foreigners. I’d suggest they try smoked pork or duck with dumplings. Bohemian carp is another good option as there is a big tradition for carp here (we even eat it on christmas day). We also have a lot of traditional cakes — again, not healthy, but excellent.

Are there any dishes to be eaten with Czech beer?

Baked pork knuckle, pork ribs, or goulash. The philosophy is that if you have a full stomach you cannot drink so much. We also have a special beer cheese (syrečky). This is a popular accompaniment to beer and most Czech pubs sell it. Another is toasted bread with garlic spread, scrambled eggs, grated cheese, and ketchup. For a hangover you can try salted herrings, garlic broth, or drink the liquid from the pickle jar!

Which Czech meal would you cook for a party?

Grilled or baked pork with potato pancakes and cabbage salad. This is a modern take on the typical Czech dish of pork, dumplings, and cabbage. I’d also make carp chips­.

Can you recommend any good Czech restaurants?

Pegast in České Budějovice has an excellent chef and the prices are reasonable. In Prague, I recommend the Michelin star restaurant ‘La Degustation Boheme Bourgeoise’, where typical Czech food is cooked in a modern way. In Olomouc, try Entrée — the owner is a judge on Czech Masterchef and very creative.

How has Czech cuisine changed in recent years?

It has changed a lot. For example, buckwheat was popular during the First Republic, then it disappeared during socialism, and now it has returned again. Globalisation has brought influences from many other countries. Indian and Italian cuisine has had a particularly strong influence in terms of ingredients and spices.

What are the best and worst things about typical Czech food?

The best thing is the roots of our cuisine, which are over 200 years old. The worst is the impact of communism, because we lost many of our cooking traditions. Each year this continues to improve, but it’s impossible to change everything overnight.