I just finished a book by Karel Čapek which describes his visit to England in 1924. Unlike many Czechs who romanticise England, Čapek wasn’t overly enthusiastic, though he did find the English way of life interesting. Even during his short stay, some of his observations in Letters from England proved remarkably accurate. I delve into a few of them here.
1. “The people here [in London] are quieter than elsewhere; they talk to each other half-heartedly, and their aim is to get home with the least possible delay.”
Karel Čapek accurately points out that London is quieter compared to other capitals. Take the London underground, for instance; even in crowded stations, the noise seldom exceeds a soft murmur. A study from ‘Watching the English‘ highlighted how English people tend to avoid strangers on the platform. The reasoning is interesting: if they greet someone once they might feel obliged to do so daily, potentially leading to unwanted conversations.
2. “I have not yet seen a carpenter or a locksmith or a workshop or a journeyman or an apprentice; here are nothing but shops, nothing but Westminster Bank and Midland Bank Ltd.”
Napoleon famously labeled the UK as a “nation of shopkeepers,” and it holds true that a significant portion of England’s wealth is derived from commerce rather than land or population. Visitors from Central and Eastern Europe often remark that the English are not particularly “handy.” For instance, Czechs tend to handle tasks themselves, from fixing leaky taps to constructing their own houses, while the English are more inclined to call for assistance.
3. “In our country, in Italy, in France, the street is a sort of large tavern or public garden, a village green, a meeting-place, a playground and theatre, an extension of home and doorstep; here it is something which belongs to nobody, and which does not bring anyone closer to his fellows, here you do not meet with people, and things, but merely avoid them.”
In some European cities, the streets are alive with human activity: individuals perch on benches, dance on street corners, and carry out household tasks outdoors. For English people, the city is more of a place to navigate than to relish; they prefer not to linger in the streets but seek the comfort of their homes.
4. “The English home is separated from the street not merely by a curtain in the window, but also by a garden and a railing, ivy, a patch of grass, a door-knocker and old-age tradition. The English home must have its own garden, for the street does not provide it with a queer and delightful pleasurance; and the garden must have its own swing or playground because the street does not provide it with a playground or the diversions of a skating rink.”
It’s common knowledge that the English have a fondness for gardens, but I hadn’t thought much about the physical barriers they employ to distinguish their homes from the street. I suspect homeowners don’t do this intentionally; it’s probably an unconscious expression of their wish to maintain a divide between private and public life.
5. “The chauffeurs do not sound their hooters like mad and the people do not call each other names; they are such quiet people… A man from the Continent gives himself an air of importance by talking; an Englishman by holding his tongue.”
While the English may not necessarily characterize themselves as reserved, they do tend to be quieter compared to people from other nations. In English culture, there’s a disdain for individuals who excessively enjoy talking, and those who are excessively loud often face derision or mockery. Silence is still regarded as a virtue in England, even today.
6. “The English countryside is not for work; it is for show. It is as green as a park and as immaculate as paradise…. These people aren’t peasants; this is only a sort of garden…they don’t think it worth the labour; they get their wheat from Australia and sugar from India and potatoes from Africa …”
While in many countries, you’ll come across land cultivated for crops, a journey through the UK reveals fields occupied by cows and sheep. As Karel Čapek highlights, the UK relies heavily on imported produce, leading to the use of many fields for pasture. This transforms the countryside into a picturesque scene – and for numerous visitors, this is its charm.
7. “The man sitting opposite you in the train will anger you for two hours by not regarding you as worthy of a glance; then suddenly he gets up and hands you your bag which you are unable to reach. Here the people always manage to help each other, but they never have anything to say to each other except about the weather.”
The English aren’t aloof or indifferent; they simply value privacy and are cautious about intruding on others or having their own privacy invaded. If you seek assistance from an English person, they are likely to agree, which is why they may become upset if they don’t receive similar consideration when abroad.
8. “In the place of taverns, where one can sit, drink and talk, they have invented bars, where one can stand, drink and hold one’s peace.”
Beyond being a social gathering spot, the pub also functions as a place to “escape” and “reflect.” While trendy bars cater to partygoers, there are numerous pubs that remain havens for retreat. During my recent visit to England, I observed many older individuals heading to the pub with a newspaper tucked under their arm.
9. “English cooking is of two kinds: good and average. Good English cooking is simply French cooking; the average cooking in the average hotel for the average Englishman explains to a large extent the english bleakness and taciturnity… The cooking lacks a certain lightness and floweriness, joie de vivre, melodiousness, and sinful voluptuousness.”
Karel Čapek is spot-on in noting that many of the highlights of British cuisine have roots in other countries – take, for instance, chicken tikka masala, now considered Britain’s national dish. Traditionally, British cuisine excels in simplicity and heartiness with staples like pasties, pies, and fish and chips. Despite lacking the exuberance of other culinary traditions, these classics possess a unique charm.
If Čapek were to witness today’s food scene in the UK, he might find it pleasantly surprising. Walk into any pub or restaurant, and you’ll encounter a diverse array of intriguing dishes on the menu. In contrast to countries with firmly established national cuisines, where your meal choice may be predetermined before entering a building, modern British food seems to embrace a fusion of international influences. This culinary diversity reflects the multicultural essence of London, which some consider the true face of contemporary Britain.
10. “The average man proceeds homeward reading a newspaper and looking neither to the right nor to the left. At home he has fireside, his little garden, and the inviolate privacy of his family. Besides that he cultivates sports at the weekend. More about his life than this I have been unable to ascertain.”
This eloquently sums up Karel Čapek’s earlier arguments. It’s truly astonishing how, despite his brief visit to England, he managed to provide such accurate observations. His knack for detail and humour has certainly won me over. I look forward to immersing myself in more of his writing.